Every luxury watch brand has a model that shows what the brand is about. The Patek Philippe Calatrava represents Patek Philippe. Although the Nautilus might be more popular, the Calatrava is a classic and iconic part of the Patek Philippe collection, and it can not be replaced. 

Before discussing some top Calatrava models, it would be better to discuss the history of the watch.

The History Of The Patek Philippe Calatrava

The first ever Patek Philippe Calatrava was launched in 1932. This was when pocket watches were still very common, and wristwatches were just starting to come into the limelight. 

The man behind the Calatrava, David Penney, admired the Bauhaus industrial and interior design style. The Bauhaus movement originated in Germany in 1919. This movement emphasized an approach to designs that brought together aesthetics, technology, and elite craftsmanship. Penney believed that simplistic timepieces would look more elegant. He put such belief into work when he designed the first ever Calatrava, the ref. 96. This watch was crafted in gold, had a clean ivory dial with applied gold markers, and featured a small subsidiary seconds dial at 6 'o clock. This watch, which measured 31 mm x 9 mm, was powered by a Jaeger-LeCoultre mechanical movement (Patek Philippe did not produce its own movements at this time). 

Jean and Charles Stern were brothers whose family owned a dial-making company in Switzerland. They had just recently purchased Patek Philippe and were looking to launch a new watch model. When they first saw the design of David Penney, they instantly knew that it was a perfect model that would show the premier craftsmanship and innovative style of Patek Philippe. 

Patek Philippe named the design "Calatrava," which was a reference to the 12th century Calatrava Knights of Spain and Portugal. Fun fact, Patek Philippe, 45 years earlier, had registered the Calatrava Cross design as a trademark. However, they never used the name or symbol for any of its collections until 1932.

The Variations

The original Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 was produced for over 40 years. During this time, a number of reinterpretations were also made, including the ref. 570 in 1938. The Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 570 was a larger version measuring 35.5 mm compared to the 31 mm ref. 96. 

In 1953, Patek Philippe released the first ever automatic Calatrava, the 36 mm ref. 2526. Only about 600 of them were produced, but they are still coveted by collectors today on the second-hand market. 

In 1973, Patek Philippe released what watch enthusiasts consider the signature Calatrava, the ref. 3520.

One of the more lived pieces, the Officer's Style Calatrava, was launched in 1989 and led to the ref. 5524G Pilot's watch, which was unveiled in 2015.

And today, there are many references in the Calatrava collection.

Now then, let us look at some of the best Calatrava watches.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Small Seconds 5196G-001 

Here we have the elegant ref. 5196G-001. This 37 mm watch has a gold case and a grey dial. The dial has thin hour markers and hands. The dial also features a tiny seconds dial at 6. The watch is powered up by the Caliber 215 PS, a mechanical manual winding movement. The Caliber gives the watch a power reserve of about 44 hours. The watch comes with a black alligator leather strap, adding to the already elegant watch. 

Patek Philippe Calatrava Timeless White 7122/200R

Next up, we have the ref. 7122/200R. This is a fan favorite ladies' timepiece and is the epitome of ladies' elegance. It has a rose gold diamond-set case and a white dial. The dial has gold applied hours markers and hands added with the small seconds' dial at 6. Caliber 215 PS powers this beautiful timepiece. A fine white alligator leather strap completes this watch.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Small Seconds 5196R-001

This 37 mm rose gold Patek Philippe Calatrava is powered by Caliber 215 PS, a mechanical manual winding movement. It has a clean dial with rose gold applied hour markers and hands and a classic tiny seconds dial at 6:00. A brown alligator leather strap completes the elegant look of this watch.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Small Seconds 5196P

The ref. 5196P small seconds is a pure dress watch for gentlemen. This 37 mm platinum watch is powered by Caliber 215 PS, a mechanical manual winding movement. It has a two-toned silver-grey dial. The dial has silver leaf-shaped hands, and white gold applied Breguet-style Arabic numerals. A black alligator leather strap adds to the sophistication of this watch.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Manual Winding 4897R

This 33 mm rose gold watch is another excellent-looking timepiece for women. It has a rich brown guilloché dial. The dial features rose gold-tone hands and thin indexes. The bezel has been set with 72 diamonds which adds to the beauty of this luxury timepiece. This watch is powered by Caliber 215, a mechanical manual winding movement. To complete the elegance of this watch, a matching rich chocolate brown satin strap is added. 

Conclusion:

The Calatrava is still going strong in the market today. And to sum this up in one line, Patek Philippe put it out the best, "Supremely elegant, it charms each new generation of watch lovers by its timeless understated perfection." 

The Calatrava is a classic, versatile timepiece adored by watch collectors. Whether new or vintage, it is a must-have in any watch enthusiast's collection. If you are looking forward to purchasing a Calatrava, consider the mentioned options.